One December I took an epic trip with a special friend. While we waffled between Peru and something a bit colder, we landed on seeing the Northern Lights. While there would have been easier ways to see them, we chose Norway. Why not?
I tried something new on this trip and sent a live blog to a small group of people who followed along. Nothing easy about doing this but it’s something I think I will try and do in the future. Usually, we adventure and come back with every good intention of putting together highlights but life takes over. While my sleep suffered, my memories are here forever. I’ll put this on my list of good decisions. With that, forgive any typos and the like. Let’s get into it.
Step 1 - JKF to CDG to Tromso
We are on our way to Tromso, Norway. While JFK has direct flights to many places, you can’t seem to make it into the Arctic Circle directly. And that’s where we are going. Literally, 200 miles into the Arctic Circle.
With the absence of direct flights, we make the best of it and plan a strategic five-hour layover in Paris so we can start the trip with a visit to a couple of icons.
We make time for some breakfast too. Another Uber back to the airport, and we make our way to Tromso. And it turns out, Tromso is lovely.
The morning we left the US, I downloaded a couple of handfuls of books. It was a bit excessive as I have two substantial biographies to make my way through. While I spent some time with Harry Truman from Paris to Tromso, I’ve also spent time with the house of Stark and Lannister. I’m able to rationalize binging this epic series for some reason. Game of Thrones kept me up till 2 AM local while the little prince racked out.
But first, coffee.
The sun does come up here, just not while we are here. Come back in four months, and it doesn’t go down. This fascinates me. Why aren’t there more vampire movies based here? Are there any? Maybe they just come for the winter?
I’m up at 7 AM. I need to keep my streak of beating the sun up (but do I, really?), and this place affords me a couple of hours of extra sleep. I head to a 24-hour 7/11 I found last night. There aren’t many options for coffee at this hour and it’s not what you think, and it is— all the trappings of the same US franchise, only cleaner, lovely design, and food that is not fried.
It’s dark, quiet, and 17 degrees.
Sunrise?
It’s nearly 10 AM. Free breakfast. I’m in. Marek and I find a table that hangs over the lobby. I set down my bag and looked up. The sun is ‘rising.’ Breakfast will wait.
And breakfast was wonderful. Thanks, Clarion.
Exploring Tromso
We have some light, at least for a couple of hours. We are both in love with the simplicity of the architecture, the attention to aesthetics, and the fact that we have no real plan. Just walk.
The harbor is filled with what you would expect—boats satisfying the appetites of us visitors as well as more practical participants. A Coast Guard icebreaker, the KV Sortland, and an offshore supply vessel, Eidsvaag Opal were highlights for me. If you are interested in the rabbit hole I went down regarding the Eidsvaag Opal, try this page where you see how she was completely rebuilt. Wow.
I know at least one person who will read this appreciates this sauna.
Trolls & Graffiti
Take the back alleys, that’s where you find the good stuff.
Well done Tromso, well done.
Trolls, but first, art.
The Northern Norway Art Center
Trolls
We found out trolls have tails. Who knew?
It’s cool with AR at many of the stations. And the entrance is dark. Perfect for hiding, pretending to be a troll, and basically giving your 12 YO a heart attack (if you are wondering why he is on the floor).
After a quick lunch, we hit the road. Except the car is stuck. Well, not really, but close. The exit ramp is so tight we take 10 minutes. Now I understand why no one else parked there and the front desk agent lets me know he is a pro helping tourists get out. Again, take full insurance -
“I want the give you the keys and get on the plane insurance.”
Coffee and hot chocolate for the road.
Wait, we need groceries too. Tonight is ‘self-catered,’ says the instructions for the cabin. See what they did there? The spin would make my Kiwi friend proud. Including photos for a friend who likes markets :). Marek passed on the bacon cheese in a tube. Weird.
The Ice Highway
Have you seen that reality TV show with trucks in Canada? Ice Road Truckers, I think? Well, that was my drive. I say ‘my’ as my adventure buddy was back at this wonderful sketch he has been working on. Airpods in - you’re on your own, pah.
While it is 3PM, it’s dark. This road is without lights. And, as you might expect, it snows in Norway. Snow, ice, and wind for 2.5 hours.
But the roadside stops have incredible holiday decorations. They really do it right here. Eat your heart out Terrain. Most houses have lights too.
The Cabin
Just off the main road, you wind your way past a distillery, and you find 12 shipping container-sized tiny homes.
They are on stilts over the Fjord, and are perfect. Self-catering, here I come.
Pasta & Cards :)
Protip, you can use a vegetable peeler to shave cheese. That took me 45 years to put together. I even figured out how to turn on the heat. Pretty good win.
Northern Lights - Not Looking Good For This Trip
It’s not as easy as flying through two countries, renting a car, and driving on the ice death highway. A substorm has to happen and it needs to be a clear night (no clouds). I’m watching the weather, it doesn’t look good.
I exchange texts with an epic adventurer I know. He wishes me luck and sends me good vibes.
There’s an app - Hello Aurora and it’s good. I’ve been coming back to it a couple of times an hour. It shows you substorm activity and cloud cover. Very poor conditions until Wednesday, the day we leave. :(.
I’m most of the way through season 1 of Game of Thrones, for the second time. I fell asleep midway through episode 7 at about 1130PM. I’m out for 15 minutes. I wake up and decide to keep going. Watch another. That’s not me. I don’t do that. I go to sleep and get my 7- 8 hours, that’s what I do.
Halfway through the next episode, I check the app again…there is a hit over the mountain, and someone posted.
I run outside, down the road, and to the water. It’s faint. Is that a cloud or is this it? Nah, can’t be it. I take a photo with my phone…yep, this is it. I sprinted back up the snow-covered road get Q, my kit, and we head back.
Tomorrow - ferry, huskies, and fish stew.
So grateful.
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Great post. I was just in Iceland this June...two days after our meeting in Chicago. The sun never went down. It was spectacular. Earth and water and fire were in charge... clearly in charge. Certainly does that all of the senses. Thanks for the reminder that the dark season is magical too...
Thank you for the memory and sharing- it was spectacular following you while on the trip, especially with your incredible photography and medium. ❤️❤️